D&G SS12
As previously mentioned, D&G‘s Spring/Summer 2012 collection was the final collection for the brand. Moment of silence

…over. Time to get happy and excited about Domenico and Stefano’s designs integrating into Dolce & Gabbana! As a goodbye kiss, the designers pulled scarf prints from their own back catalog and combined them with crests, medallions, polka dots, flowers, butterflies and more. Like a lot of my favourite collections this season, the entire show was frosted in prints.

Whether the look was glamorous, eclectic, or a mix of the two, I am positive that every single one of these pieces are going to be collector’s items. Save me some minaudières, satin print wedges and gold gladiator flats, y’all. View Post

Moschino SS12
While the fan-shaped invitation to the Spring/Summer 2012 collection from Moschino hinted at a flamenco feel, the actual garments were executed with vast improvements to my expectations (a good thing!). Instead of tiered, overdone ‘costumes‘, Moschino (via the styling of Anna Dello Russo) pulled out gold bell-embelllished toreador jackets, richly embroidered mini dresses, ruffles and petticoats to compliment beautiful lace work, high-waisted trousers, and even gorgeous monteras (the traditional hat worn by a Matador).

It was a theme translated with indisputable expertise, as many of the items already have me compiling my “Moschino Fund“; a super-colourful flower-packed black leather jacket covered emblazoned with the slogan ‘Make Up Not War‘, in particular. Muy bien. View Post

Mary Katrantzou SS12
Oh, Mary Mary, she seemed to be sick of everyone asking how her garden grows. Visual tools are the best answers, anyway. With an elongated bed of flowers in the centre of Miss Katrantzou’s Spring/Summer 2012 runway, the tone was set for an smart set of sartorial garden glory.

Glory, it was. I haven’t seen a designer use such involved precision in efforts to rewrite the linearity of a woman’s body for quite some time. Especially not like this. Her cuts are unusual in the most glamorous and distinctive way, letting her seamlessly follow body-conscious silhouettes with weightless trains. Like sophisticated, lavender, yellow, orange, green and pink birds of paradise. View Post

Meadham Kirchhoff SS12
Ed Meadham and Ben Kirchoff are the absolute masters of madness. For Spring/Summer 2012, the designer duo reached new heights of brand-synonymous wonderment. Unlike the tongue-in-chic vintage-bound pieces of their last few seasons, this was a super literal candy-coated extravaganza.

Underneath balloon-coated archways, a school of Courtney Love manqués danced out and routinely applied their rouge. Following them were the ‘real’ models dressed in almost the antithesis of their Spring/Summer 2011 collection; a collection which pushed and brilliantly overdid the ideas of female gender expectation. This season, it was a full embrace of “the women on the cake” (at one point, after another gaggle of schoolgirl ballerinas appeared, there was actually a Busby Berkeley-style arrangement of models on a gargantuan cake). We’re talking starlets, models, showgirls, beauty pageant queens, and princesses. Meadham said he wanted to take them off the cake, and put a real girl – non defined by but indulgent in feminine frippery – up there.

Every look was styled theatrically, yet each garment was individually wearable; checked-out button downs, hot pants, broderie anglaise, sculptured dresses, vintage cartoon appliques, baby-doll mixed with elaborate vintage shapes, and pastel-fluffed marabou coats. A dream come true for anyone who has ever liked the colour pink. There were many eyes that couldn’t stay dry. View Post

Giles SS12
While Giles Deacon whimsically tagged his latest collection as “showgirls, superstars, society ladies and a silver swan“, I have seriously never seen silver like the silver I saw at Giles for Spring/Summer 2012.

Inspired by photographer Cecil Beaton (and the images of his sister Baba, in particular), Giles presented a collection that was stuffed to it’s flawless brim with striking and super-shimmering pieces; standout pieces include swan prints mixed with light-reflective design, feather-trimmed wedding dresses, and a bevy of silver laser-cut leather that I am now convinced every woman needs. Not to say it was all metallics, as one of my favourite pieces was an opulent red, tiered column gown. On top of that, the casting was incredible. This season, Giles Deacon managed to combine the theatrical with the wearable in such a way that young designers will be referencing this collection for years to come. View Post