Milan Fashion Week
Week 3 of Fashion Month means what? Milano Womenswear, of course! From September 21st to the 27th, we will see everyone from Gucci, to Fendi, to Prada, to Missoni, and all of our other favourites. See the full schedule below!

Wednesday 21, September
09:30 Simonetta Ravizza (Via Clerici, 5)
11:30 Paola Frani (Via Carlo Botta, 8 )
12:30 Roccobarocco (Piazza Duomo, Lato la Rinascente)
14:00/15:00 Gucci (Piazza Oberdan, 2/B)
16:00 John Richmond (Giardini di Porta Venezia)
17:00 Alberta Ferretti (Via Senato, 10)
18:00 N°21 (Viale Alemagna, 6)
19:00 Francesco Scognimiglio (Via San Vittore,21)

Thursday 22nd September
09:30 MaxMara (Via Senato, 10)
10:30 Blugirl (C.so Venezia, 16)
11:30 Fendi (Via Sciesa, 3)
12:30 Ermanno Scervino (Via San Luca, 3)
14:00 D&G (Viale Piave, 24 Metropol)
15:00 Genny (Via Marconi, 1)
16:00 Krizia (Via Manin, 21)
17:00 Jo No Fui (Via Fogazzaro, 23)
18:00 Daniela Gregis (Piazza Sant’ Ambrogio 23/A)
18:00 Prada (Via Fogazzaro, 36)
19:00 Albino (Via Clerici, 5)
20:00 Anteprima (Piazza Duomo)

Friday 23rd September
09:30 Moschino (Via Senato, 10)
10:30 Antonio Marras (Viale Alemagna, 6)
11:30 2012 Les Copains (Via Clerici)
12:30 Etro (Via Piranesi, 14)
14:00 C’N’C Costume National (Piazza Duomo, Lato La Rinascente)
15:00 Iceberg (Via Palermo)
16:00 Blumarine (C.So Venezia, 16)
17:00 Gabriele Colangelo (Via Clerici, 5)
18:00 Lorenzo Riva (Via Burigozzo, 6)
18:00 Mardo de Vincenzo (Via Clerici, 5)
19:00 Aigner (Via Clerici, 10)
19:00 – 20:00 Versace (Via Gesu, 12)
20:30 Trussardi (Castello Sforzesco)

Saturday 24th September
09:30 Bottega Veneta (Via Priv. Ercole Marelli, 6)
10:30 – 11:30 Emporio Armani (Via Bergognone, 59)
11:30 Mila Schon (Via Clerici, 10)
12:30 Sportmax (Via Senato, 10)
14:00 – 15:00 Jil Sander (Via Beltrami, 5)
15:00 Silvio Betterelli (Via Clerici, 5)
16:00 Frankie Morello (Via Palermo, 10)
17:00 Just Cavalli (Via Orobia 15)
18:00 Ter Et Bantine (Via San Francesco D’Assisi 15)
19:00 – 20:00 Emilio Pucci (C.So Venezia, 16)
20:30 Moschino Cheap and Chic (Via Marina Ang Via Boscheti)

Sunday 25th September
09:30 – 10:30 Marni (Via Alserio, 22)
11:30 1a Classe – Alveiro Martini
12:30 Laura Biagiotti (Via Rivoli, 6)
14:00 Dolce & Gabbana (Viale Piave, 24 Metropol)
15:00 Byblos (Piazza Duomo, Lato La Rinascente)
16:00 Missoni (Via Festa del Perdono, 7)
17:00 Massimo Rebecchi (Via Clerici, 5)
18:00 Salvatore Ferragamo (Piazza Affari, 6)
19:00 Aquilano Rimondi (Via Palestro, 14)
20:00 Roberto Musso (Via Dei Bossi, 3)
20:30 Versus (Via Gesu, 12)

Monday 26, September
09:30 DSquared2 (Via San Luca, 3)
10:30 – 11:30 Giorgio Armani (Via Bergagnone, 59)
13:00 Roberto Cavalli (Arco Della Pace, Piazza Sempione)
14:00 – 15:00 Gianfranco Ferre’ (Via Pontaccio, 21)
16:00 Normaluisa (Via Clerici, 10)

Tuesday 27, September
10:00 Chicca Lualdi Beequeen (Via Clerici, 5)
10:45: Cristiano Burani (Via Clerici, 10)
11:30 Erkan Coruh (Via Clerici, 5)
12:00-15:00 New Upcoming Designers – Mauro Gasperi, Sergei Grinko, Francesca Liberatore (Piaza Duomo)

Nicole Farhi SS12
I absolutely adore Nicole Farhi and was more than excited to be invited backstage before and after her Spring/Summer 2012 collection was presented to the Fashion World. That excitement was positively set on fire when Anna Wintour decided Farhi’s show would be her first of London Fashion Week.

To do the collection justice, I have collaborated with my favourite photographer and friend, Eva K Salvi, to bring you some stunning photos and a diary-based review:

12pm – I get to the Horticultural Society, running, thank god I brought my pair of All Saints Boots with me and not my Kurt Geiger heels like I did the previous day. The sun is peaking through the clouds. I finally get into the venue which is already packed with photographers and videographers, everyone is setting up and running around. Nicole Farhi is chatting to people, posing for a few photos, she seems incredibly calm and relaxed. The venetian blinds close and the models start coming out on the catwalk for the run-through, it is strangely surreal to watch them walking with their hair and makeup half done.
Nicole Farhi SS12
12.30pm – Go through to backstage area after being checked on ‘The List‘. I get in and am hit with the realisation of how intense everything is “behind the scenes“. Everyone is running around, the models are getting their makeup and hair touched up. From time to time, one model will just stop and pose for photographers – there’s about 10 backstage – with assistants and reflectors etc. Everyone is super prepared.
Nicole Farhi SS12
1pm – Last call for models to go to the bathroom before the show, last touch ups, then everyone has to get runway-ready. The models start changing and I go out to the main room; rumour is Anna Wintour is there and I spot her sitting in the front row. I quickly run over and snap a few pictures before the show starts. All of the photographers have taken place in the pit and are currently “fighting” over the best spots to snap pictures of the show. I decide to run to the other side of the catwalk that seems much emptier and take place. The show starts.

1.15pm – I see half the show through my lens and try to snap pictures of almost all the outfits, the music is loud and the models are rocking the show. The show is a resplendent rainbow of pastels. I’m loving it and glance at Anna Wintour – wondering whether she’s enjoying herself or not – but the Miranda Priestly-esque stillness shows no sign of opinion (or maybe that means she loves it?).
Nicole Farhi SS12
As for the clothes, everything was texturally divine. In a sea of beautifully feminine colours, Farhi presented an oversized, sequin-covered mesh tank top and a micro mesh ensemble with gorgeous florals that almost seemed three-dimensional when layered over the coloured base fabric. Interestingly, more and more saccharine 3-D embellishments were brought to life via plastic blossom appliques, sculptural petal shapes, and laser-cut leather flowers. It was like a pointillist painting by Georges Seurat – a garden brought to life.

Heaven.
Nicole Farhi SS12
When the show is over, everyone stands up, massive round of applause for Nicole Farhi who comes out for a few seconds to salute everyone, she seems sweetly satisfied, the show went extremely well to say the least.
Nicole Farhi SS12
1.45pm – I go back backstage, the magic is gone, everyone is packing up, grabbing that last cup of coffee/bottle of Vitamin Water and are already on their journey to the next show. I recognise a few familiar faces, people I’ve worked with before, everyone seems relieved, everything went well and everyone loved the show.

2pm – I’m out and on my way to Somerset House, knackered already, those 2 hours drained me of all my energy! The sun has come out to give us our last few hours of summer, perfect ending to an extraordinary show.

See more photos below! Enlarge them all! View Post

Tom Ford SS12
Just as it was last season, Tom Ford‘s presentation for Spring/Summer 2012 was top secret. We’re talking camera-less, tweet-less top secret.

Nonetheless, someone – Candice Swanepoel, allegedly – figured out a way to snap the collection and now the image above is likely to be the closest we get to the collection until 2012. That, and the reviews of a few high-profile attendees:

Hamish Bowles, Vogue: Amongst the hourglass silhouettes and powerfully sensual effects beloved of Ford fans since his work at Gucci in the nineties, there was a thread of Pre-Raphaelite romanticism in embroidered peasant blouses (of the type Matisse loved to paint), and even frothy, Renaissance-sleeved dresses that evoked the work of the great sixties and seventies London designer Ossie Clark.

Cathy Horyn, New York Times: Mr. Ford’s show was thoroughly Tom Ford in its sex appeal and silhouette — tigress hair, smoky eyes, glossy lips, taut skirts and strappy high heels. The collection was loaded up with great day clothes, including loosely laced Moroccan blouses, fringed skirts and some simple but gorgeous dresses with ruching or a belt at the waist and a bubbled hem. A number of outfits also had corsets blended into the tone of the blouse. Equally strong were his evening option of slinky black pants—more like a ski pant—with a simple chiffon T-shirt coated with feathers at the front.

Lisa Armstrong, Daily Telegraph: Mesh, marabou, raffia fringing, a candlewick effect which suggested long hours at the hand embroiderers, plaited satin ribbons – these were just some of the techniques applied onto those hourglass silhouettes. Throw in bosoms, cupped in cantilevered chiffon, checks and some snakeskin skirts and it could have all looked a bit much.

Jess Cartner-Morley, The Guardian: I’m going to come straight out with it. Deep breath: I didn’t think Tom Ford’s show was all that. Not that it was awful, by any means, but despite the beautiful tailoring and the immaculate execution it fell a little flat. It felt too self-referential. Too many frills and too few new ideas. There were gorgeous, curvy, super vamp dresses that I loved, but the flouncy peasant blouses and corset belts seemed like a Guilty Pleasures version of Tom Ford.

Burberry Prorsum SS12
Award for the most tech-savvy show of Spring/Summer 2012? Unless someone in Milan or Paris pulls out a teleporation device, it’s going to have to be Burberry. Not only were my favourite Fashion Week travellers in attendance (Kanye West, Sienna Miller, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Anna Wintour, Olivier Theyskens, Rachel Zoe, and Mario Testino), but the rest of the internet seemed to be in attendance too. There was a Tweetwalk, live stream, and instant online shopability for the collection (though the pre-orders won’t be mailed for six months). An excellently digital production.

And then there were the clothes. In reflect, it looks like designer Christopher Bailey was heavily influenced by London’s non-existent summers, as it was the darkest colour palette of the entire week and had a gorgeous abundance of plum and teal trenchcoats that were styled with incredibly detailed, wide belts. Patterns were large, rustic, and that tribal trend definitely found it’s way in.

The key anchor to this collection? Time. Time spent on constructing basket-woven sleeves, raffia hoods and beaded collars. Time spent on perfecting the ideals around pattern-complimentary wedges and oversized handbags. Time that equals justified pricepoint. View Post

Florence Welch Interview

  • Frida Giannini and Karl Lagerfeld‘s favourite songstress, Florence Welch, covers the October issue of Interview Magazine. I love the black and white photo against the blood-red text – using Florence’s hair colour ‘against’ her, if you will.

  • Daphne Guinness has lent some of her designer couture clothing collection and a number of skyscraper heels to the Museum at the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York for an upcoming exhibition entitled “Daphne Guinness” (who’da thunk…).

  • Fashion 4 Development, a partner of the United Nations, has named Franca Sozzani – editrix of Italian Vogue – their first Goodwill Ambassador. The program endeavors “to implement creative strategies for sustainable economic growth and autonomy through diplomacy, business, media, and the creative industries” and will use fashion to spur economic growth in developing nations.

    “Franca Sozzani is a perfect choice to lead our mission as goodwill ambassador. Her professional career as well as her philanthropic efforts are truly an inspiration that will garner the support of fashion elite worldwide.”
    Evie Evangelou, co-founder of the World Fashion Development Programme and Fashion 4 Development

  • Fyodor Golan was this year’s winner of Fashion Fringe (design-based talent competition at London Fashion Week)! Previous winners include Jena Theo, Basso & Brooke, and Erdem.

  • Kanye West‘s Paris show is finally confirmed by the mutha****in’ Monster himself (via Hilary Alexander)…
    Hilary Alexander Twitter

  • Though Fashion’s Night Out has only just become a ‘thing’ outside of major International cities, the end may be near. Vogue insiders are saying it is now too much work for too little pay-off. While smaller boutiques benefit from the larger crowds, big retailers feel that the revenue generated is too small to warrant FNO‘s continuation. (The world IS ending in 2012!)

  • The former VP of women’s design at J. Crew, Marissa Webb, is leaving the company to “pursue other opportunities”. Her successor is Tom Mora, who has been with the company for over 10 years and is currently head of weddings and special occasions.

  • Marking the first Tweetwalk for any brand, Burberry ‘live tweeted’ their Spring/Summer 2011 collection from backstage yesterday, posting photographs of each look on Twitter just moments before the model stepped onto the catwalk. Anyone else remember the days where each collection was hidden from the public a la Tom Ford?