Paco Rabanne has not shown ready to wear since 2006. But damn, did those 5 years produce results.
As it was Manish Arora‘s first collection since taking over the brand, I will let him explain his Spring/Summer 2012 collection:
“The workmanship is similar [between my own work and Paco Rabanne’s work]. We like to work hard, we like to make dresses that take 25 people and 20 days to make and that’s the value of Paco Rabanne that I appreciate and that’s the common factor”.
While Manish has a real flair for sci-fi showmanship, he seemed to put his own agenda to the side and focus on the delicate relationship between revival and heritage. In homage to Paco Rabanne’s first collection in 1966 – “12 Unwearable Dresses” – Arora used the concept of dresses made from unconventional materials to show modern, bodycon, panelled chain mail dresses.
The show was fantastical. With models descending to the runway via escalator, the largest number of non-caucasian models in any Spring/Summer 2012 (a very welcome change) and a binge of innovation so turbulent you need a patch for it, Arora has hit yet another home run. View Post
Showing both her high-end namesake line, Temperley London, and her newish diffusion line, Alice by Temperley, Brit-tastic designer Alice Temperley called on larger-than-life European characters – Queen Guinevere and Marie Antoinette – and gave their wardrobes a modern twist.
The more worked and luxurious Temperley line featured gothic-tinged dresses and separates in tough leather, soft ruffles, and wildcat prints, all in dramatic silhouettes and paired with metal and leather harnesses. A hooded metallic dress reminiscent of chain mail took the King Arthur theme to its most literal.
More light and airy was the younger and more accessible Alice line, which was spun from Antoinette’s taste for decadence and romance. Girly, cool-girl pieces included slouchy trousers, skirts, and overalls in white and pale pink, billowing hand-embroidered blouses and maxi-dresses, and classic toile du Jouy prints slapped on playsuits. Many of the looks were finished with adorable studded hip belts with attached coin purses that we want very badly.
Overall, both of Temperley’s collections were extremely original and completely covetable. View Post