It can been confirmed that Lady Gaga‘s stylist Nicola Formichetti will become the new creative director of Thierry Mugler! Formichetti will oversee two designers as they create men’s and women’s ready-to-wear collections, the first of which will debut for Fall 2011.
After former creative director Rosemary Rodriguez quit recently, there were rumors that the house was courting Formichetti. Many have pondered whether his style would be stifled under the careful watch of a multi-billion-dollar parent company, but the press releases from both the designer and his new employer seem dedicated to a growth and success based on Formichetti’s vision of mental patient fabulosity.
“We were looking for a young talent who could really bring new energy to the brand,” stated Joël Palix, president of Clarins Fragrance Group, Mugler’s parent, and director general of the Mugler company. “Nicola is a multicultural, techno-savvy expert involved in fashion, communication, image and entertainment. He and the appointed talented designers will represent a new direction for French fashion.”
“Thierry Mugler is about the power of glamour and walking straight into the future,” Formichetti said in a statement to WWD. “He’s been a god for successive generations in the fashion industry. He fused pop and high fashion, told a story in style and combined fantasy with reality. My approach is personal and always very eclectic. I’d like to find new ways for a luxury brand such as Thierry Mugler to excite people.”
No, I’m not talking about Love Magazine (for once). RJ Cutler is carving out a niche for himself as a fashion-industry documentarian. As the man behind infamous “The September Issue” he brought the inner workings of Vogue to the fashion masses and made a star out of Grace Coddington. His new project, “For the Love of Fashion“, is a look at label Rag & Bone as they prep for their Fashion Week show. Trailer to follow:
Untitled from ragbone on Vimeo.
Corinne Day and Kate Moss
Corinne Day, the British fashion photographer who is largely credited with launching Kate Moss’ career, is rumored to have died. Day has been battling a brain tumor since late last year. Vogue UK reported in February that treatment for it was unsuccessful, and that the Victoria and Albert Museum was planning a retrospective of her work.
Day, who taught herself photography, is best known for her impact on the fashion industry in the early 1990s. She photographed Kate Moss’ first cover of British Vogue, and her image are considerably more documentary, biographical and ‘grunge’.
Until recently, Day had been an active photographer. Her work appeared in Italian, Japanese and British Vogue and has been exhibited at the Tate Modern, the Saatchi Gallery and the Whitney Museum.
After Katie Grand helped launch Dazed and Confused with Jefferson Hack in 1992, she had stints at The Face and Pop before starting Lela London favourite, Love Magazine, at the end of 2008.
Grand recently talked to Models.com’s Christopher Michaels, who asked her about her idea of cool, what she really thinks of blogs, and the fourth issue’s iPad app.
As commercial as one part of me is, there is the other part of me that will be like, “oh is it cool?” It’s just trying to keep that balance and unfortunately commercial often means bland; I’d rather not be bland. The fashion industry can be so evil to itself in a way, I think people can be so vindictive and nasty and judgmental about what you do and it happens in art and cinema as well. If you do anything and put yourself out there, you are open to criticism. It’s that thing about, if I don’t like it, how can anyone else like it? Or how can I be proud of something that’s on the shelf if I don’t even like it? It’s not like when you style a show because that’s someone else’s, the buck stops with someone else other than you and of course you care and you want to do your best but there is someone else at the end of the line making the final decision, with the magazine, that person is me.
…and that’s the reason blogs really do your head in; the minute you start reading them you are just full of self loathing… I think what I learned from reading too much of TheFashionSpot is that the things that bother you are only things that you think yourself. I mean, if anyone had said anything bad about the Daria story from the last issue, it’s like, “Oh for God’s sake, she just looks like the most beautiful woman on the planet, shut up.”…Whereas there are other things that people pick up on and you’re just like, “ugh I know” … And those are the things that keep you up at night…
It’s kind of weird, I think that there is something about a photograph on an iPad or a computer; even though they should look better because there is a light box behind them, there is just something that doesn’t translate that well for me. The thing that I’m obsessed with is moving image, much much more than putting photographs on an iPad.
Anna Wintour was recently interviewed by Humberto Leon and I’ve compiled some of my favourite answers below.
HL: Ignoring budget and logistics, can you describe your fantasy FNO?
AW: Looking at the impressive lineup for this year, I think we are already seeing the fantasy being played out in reality.
HL: What is a change you’ve seen in the fashion industry since the first FNO?
AW: I believe consumer confidence is being restored. People are out there shopping again without the level of guilt or concern of the previous year. Also, it’s built community amongst designers and retailers, both competitors and otherwise, and brought together all aspects of American culture and arts, which is an exciting aspect in and of itself. It’s a time of the year when fashion cities around the world are united in a cause, which is wonderful.
HL: How do you think fashion blogs have affected magazine content?
AW: Like any evolution in the industry, they force you to become better at what you do. Vogue’s in-depth articles and beautiful fashion stories, along with coverage of the arts within a fashion context, is not something that exists in the same way on blogs. They force us to dig deeper for stories, but we’re not competitors; we serve different markets.
HL: Your first Vogue cover featured jeans paired with a Christian Lacroix jacket. How did this idea, which was so revolutionary at the time, come about? Do you still take inspiration from youth culture? Is there anything happening in street style that you find interesting?
AW: It was first and foremost a translation of a European aesthetic for the American consumer. It brought couture to the street and streetwear into Vogue during the era of Madonna’s Like A Prayer. It was also a recognition of the importance of personal style in fashion, which has played a role in Vogue ever since.
HL: What is your favorite store in New York that is no longer open?
AW: There was an oculist on Prince Street that had great sunglasses and is sadly now a wine store.
HL: The place you most wish existed in NY?
AW: I love the Place des Vosges and wish there was something like it in New York.
HL: And finally, your favorite hidden spot?
AW: If I told you it wouldn’t be hidden!