Kanye West Backpack
Though I’m not at all surprised by it (haters gon’ hate), Kanye West‘s debut Spring/Summer 2012 collection has – undeservedly – been ripped to pieces by critics.

Though, no, the skill and direction of Prabal Gurung is not yet there, it wasn’t there at Gurung‘s first show, either. Hype and pretense alone does not build a dream collection, and I think with the man attached to the brand, everyone’s expectations were of couture expertise.

Rant and rave until you’re blue in the face if it untickled your fancy. I actually thought Kanye pulled together a promising collection. A collection more interesting than many other established designers have produced this season – a sincere reflection of his commitment and passion. The entrepreneur created instant must-haves; an oversized fox fur backpack, a salmon dress with two angled zippers, and a nude bandage dress with mummy-like cut outs.

It is a task to avoid the stereotype of a celebrity designer and it is normal to expect a ‘nameless’ new designer to have their first few seasons chock full of learning curves and small mistakes. Mr. West has set off on the right foot. View Post

Nina Ricci SS12
Though Peter Copping got a real upper hand on the lingerie trend when he presented his designs for Nina Ricci Resort, he carried his beautifully seductive pieces through to the brand new Spring/Summer 2012 collection, ”Zina“.

While it was named after the artist who designed prints for Nina Ricci in the 1930‘s, Zina de Plagny, the artist’s collaborative new century florals were above and beyond.

That said, it was not only the florals that had my heart racing. Dressed up sheaths, delicate underpinnings, and even a coat which was enveloped between two layers of grey chiffon, quilted with silver thread. He cohesively designed a collection that appeals to both a daywear and couture customer. I die. View Post

Balmain SS12
Though it is unrealistic to expect that we all will be able to afford the pieces presented, Balmain for Spring/Summer 2012 is going to give fresh, worldwide inspiration to many a fashionista.

Olivier Rousteing had a lot on stake this season. It was the young (and hot, ahem) designer’s first season at the reigns of the label after working under Christophe Decarnin for two years, and he certainly impressed. With not a raised brow in the room, Balmain’s ferocious rock and roll edge took not a step out of line.

With Rousteing’s MO being to mix the tailoring of Mexico and the glamour of Vegas without watering Balmain down, he turned out a brilliant, refined collection. With chrome, gold, black and icy white literally sparkling it’s way into view from backstage, we all experienced insta-love over second skin style dresses, beautifully embellished and fringed jackets, as well as enough leather and studs to please the baddest ‘bad girl’ around. View Post

Carven SS12
Listen up, girly girls! The only collection you need to invest in for Spring/summer 2012. Being one of my favourite brands – especially in the shopability stakes – I have huge expectations for Carven each and every season.

Of course, they haven’t disappointed. Designer Guillaume Henry has mastered and consistently curated the epitome of ‘The Pretty Parisian‘ in a welcoming and charming manner. Luxe short suits, peter pan collars, a-line offerings, buttery leather dresses, and trash-less midriffs bared, anyone?

Everyoneobviously. ;D View Post

Gareth Pugh SS12
I have nothing but praise for Gareth Pugh‘s collection for Spring/Summer 2012. With ingenious longtime collaborators Matthew Stone and Ruth Hogben providing exquisitely heavy sound and vision to enhance Pugh’s collection, the dramatic habit of previous seasons took a triumphant turn towards happier semblances.

Doing the smartest thing a great designer could do, he refined his point of view. Floaty scarf points, monochrome, tailored volume, stripes, and more; all precise icons of the Gareth Pugh empire which were finely tuned and rehashed to suit a wardrobe of a metaphorical bird of prey. Pugh excelled. View Post