PPQ Fall Winter 2011
I am having Veruca Salt-cravings for a cat hat, Amy Molyneaux and Percy Parker. In fact, I think all of your designs for PPQ Fall/Winter 2011 are exceeding brilliance. The accessories alone were wholly covetable: platforms with feathers and fine fabric features, ice cube-sheathed evening bags, mega buttons, and more! While the bonkers eclipsed the show, there were some sublime pieces with simple silhouettes. Deep down, everyone wants to be a PPQ girl. See the top five looks below! View Post

Devil Wears Prada Fashion Jobs
Courtesy of Franca Sozzani (Vogue Italia).

“Hard to say because like any other job there aren’t set rules but many variables. It’s not something negative but an 360 degree opening on how to move around. It’s true that to work in a magazine you don’t need a degree or a study course, but I do believe culture is very important. You can survive without it but in time you might drag yourself to a stop. First you need to know what jobs are available in a magazine.

Journalist

Fashion or actuality (cinema to art, music, to lifestyle), you need to know how to write, and also have some knowledge about things, an education. Literary, literature and philosophy, languages, it doesn’t matter, the important thing is to study and learn.
Keep yourself up to date by reading the papers, books, not only best-sellers, also things that help you understand what’s going on around the world: biographies, essays, literature from around the world. Everyone thinks they can write about fashion, but it’s not true. Educated quotes better the quality of the magazine and prevent it from being common. Studying also helps to develop a work method, knowledge and culture with their references also help creativity.

Fashion Editor

You don’t need to have studied something in particular but to have at least a fashion history and photography course on your belt, it should be mandatory! Anyone can match a sweater with a jacket. It’s true, creativity comes from an innate instinct that recognizes what’s beautiful, an editor doesn’t need to study, however, there are many interesting courses in Italy if you would like to pursue this path.
Not everyone who attends these schools, academies, universities, will become a stylist, but they will be able to recognize a fabric, how a dress is made, how to move around a creative industry.
I know most of the stylists of the world, and sometimes when I hear them talk, it surprises me how they end up doing a great job on sophisticated and beautiful shoots.
They barely can speak their own language. With their natural talent they work well with magazines, make a good salary thanks to all of the publicity, but they don’t get to do more. If they do, they usually don’t resist long and stay in the stylist category forever without ever making the jump. Fashion is culture, it’s more and more combined with cinema and music. If you lack in knowledge, you end up not understanding all of the things happening around you and therefore not putting them in your shoots. Culture is quality.

Art directors and graphic designers

It’s a must to have studied graphics, but also having knowledge in photography. If you don’t need a degree, you at least need to know about past art directors, the ones of today, and know a lot about the magazine world. Not to copy anything, but it’s a know-how that helps putting the grounds, creating new pages, and why not fonts. Information, because graphics have to put into light the content: if we don’t understand what’s written, graphics are merely a style exercise.

Beauty Editor


Same thing as for the fashion editor, a special knowledge of cosmetics, this can happen by working in the magazine as an assistant to someone.

Events

The papers, and especially Vogue Italia, organize a lot of events for special launches, to show the work of a photographer, to launch a movie, or a website, for benefits, and so on. There are three main roles: the one that organizes it, the one that creates it, and the press office. Everyone has its own role in synergy with the other. What should one study to manage an event? Experience. And how? There are degrees in communications, each school has at least a course for it. Are they helpful? Yes to have an education. You learn notions and methods. In your daily work however, you develop a good sense for things because fashion has its rules and codes. Becoming someone’s assistant, or helping as an intern helps to understand the mechanisms.

How much are the internships worth? A lot. They train you and help you enter the work force. I know how hard it is to find papers and magazines that give you this possibility; this is why we at least try to give space to as much internships as we can. We will keep on doing this, try to give you a hand when possible.”

Eric Tibusch Couture
Parisian couturier Eric Tibusch provides everything a woman needs from haute couture. The genius designer is known for his modern and affordable productions of French haute couture, which he qualifies as “young couture”. Tibusch was recruited on the spot by Jean Paul Gaultier in 1998 and given the responsibility for the fashion shows of his famous “Maison de Haute Couture”, eventually creating his own “Maison de Couture” eight years later, aged just 34. This week, I was fortunate enough to get a great interview with the legend himself:

Bonjour, monsieur! Five words to sum up the brand?
Contemporary-avant-garde-couture. There, I can sum it up in one!

Smart cookie. So why fashion design in the first place?
When I was a child I remember going to visit the tailor-maid with my mother. I would collect pieces of fabric that had fallen on the floor and make clothes for my cousin’s Barbie dolls. Also, my mother was a fashion-lover and she passed this down onto me. Fashion has been a passion shared by the both us and this passion is something I’ve always had inside me. I worked for several years in a famous couture house where I learnt an enormous amount of things. One day the opportunity to launch a couture collection presented itself to me, and so I went for it, and it all began from there.

What a dream! What has been your biggest challenge thus far?
The biggest challenge has been launching a ready-to-wear line, in fact we are currently developing a second line for the wider public for both women and men.

Men, as well – how refreshing! How would you define your personal style?
Comfortable, elegant and contemporary.

Finish this sentence: “I can’t get through the day without…”
Shoes!

And for the females – one piece of advice for today’s woman?
A little black dress, because every woman needs to have one in her wardrobe.

Favourite and least favourite trend of the season?
I don’t actually pay attention to the current trends, I prefer to anticipate upcoming trends instead!

Personal highlight from your last show?
My personal favourite from my latest couture show ‘Legende‘ is my ‘contemporary art in haute couture’ dress. To make it, I took down an oil painting and cut into it to form a long dress. The painting is signed Alexandra Mas, and the dress will be on display at her upcoming exhibition in London early next year.

That was a phenomenal piece! So, what is next for Eric Tibusch?
It’s more or less confidential, so all I will reveal is that I am continuing my exploration of fashion architecture.

Alexa Chung Rachel Bilson Fashion Week Chanel

“There are random moments —tossing a salad, coming up the driveway to the house, ironing the seams flat on a quilt square, standing at the kitchen window and looking out at the delphiniums, hearing a burst of laughter from one of my children’s rooms— when I feel a wavelike rush of joy. This is my true religion: arbitrary moments of nearly painful happiness for a life I feel privileged to lead. Think of the way you sometimes see a tiny shaft of sunlight burst through a gap between rocks, the way it then expands to illuminate a much larger space —it’s like that. And it’s like quilting, a thread surfacing and then disappearing into the fabric of ordinary days. It’s not always visible, but it’s what holds everything together.”
– “The Art of Mending” by Elizabeth Berg

Marc Jacobs Runway NYFW
It’s never just one reference with Marc Jacobs. Last night, his collection touched on ’70s glam, Yves Saint Laurent circa the Morocco era, Halston‘s brand of Studio 54 decadence with a modern twist, and colorful Missoni knits. That is what you call New York Fashion Week. It was a divine disco with accessories galore. The cool factor was high on a copper lamé blazer with short pants that I am now lusting after. Colors were bright, and many ensembles were adorned with matching fabric orchids – a refreshing tropical breeze needed in this season of stark white minimalism. View Post