Peter Som SS12
Peter Som showed a kaleidoscope of colour and playfulness for his Spring/Summer 2012 collection. The spectrum was gorgeous; shocking fucshia, khakis, tantalizing tangerines, and cobalt hues danced around strong patterns and florals. Watching models walk brightly down the runway to “Heart Is a Beating Drum” by The Kills and “Face in the Crowd” by Cat’s Eyes, not a second of the show left me dissatisfied. With the risk of a truly floral collection becoming overly girly, Som used sixties mod shapes with an optimistic edge. I would wear everything. View Post

Armani Prive Fall Couture 2011
Thus far, I have been relatively unimpressed by the showings of Fall 2011’s Couture Fashion Week. Giorgio Armani‘s collection for Armani PrivĂ© – “Hommage au Japon” – however, is an exception.

As the title suggests, Giorgio was profoundly moved by March’s earthquake and tsunami in Japan, and thus dedicated the collection to the refinery, aesthetic and beauty of the troubled country. Vivid florals were paired with heavy velvets, obi belts, shapely silhouettes and directionally profound shapes. Though it came at the very end, the tangerine embroidered top and black sequin skirt was the collection’s perfection. Absolutely beautiful in every way.

Alexis Mabille Runway PFW
There has been such a profusion of white-based collections over Spring/Summer 2011‘s four fashion weeks that it has become offensive. As part of the trend, Alexis Mabille managed to get off the hook. Though completely neutral, his full skirts and signature bows had a refined dexterity. This is the kind of stuff women reach for when they want something a little bit fabulous in their day. View Post

Antonio Marras MFW Runway
Love Kenzo? Love Antonio Marras. This is someone who pulls of romanticism so well you would think he invented it. What I loved in particular was his use of sportswear shapes on a very gentle archetypes. Lingerie accents were so well made they safely steered clear of any raunchy undertones. He closed with white paper butterflies, a themed trick so precise it made me want to reach through my laptop. A very powdery and innocent collection. View Post

Caroline Charles LFW Runway
Caroline Charles took a very detailed note from the success of fifties style for London Fashion Week. While her customer tends to be more mature, there was enough knicker-flashing underneath a mesh tutu to keep the young interested. She slickly introduced glitter where appropriate, kept shapes and trends interesting, and threw gloves on a countless number of lewks (that was for you, Brad Goreski). One-hundred-percent commercial and set to a Happy Days-worthy soundtrack. View Post