From the first model on the runway, we are struck by what resembles an out-of-style Gucci collection from ten years ago. The fussy complications of the cuts (drawstrings, shirring, high-waisted skirts, leg-of-lamb sleeves), the disheveled hairstyle of a girl barely back from happy hour, and the overdone makeup… Overload is the key word of the show… The laced shoe? An ersatz model of an Alaïa. The jogging shorts in black leather? Already seen last year in Céline‘s cruise collection, as were the sandals with bracelet straps (here, encrusted with rhinestones). The coat bristling with raffia? A pale version of those in Yves Saint Laurent‘s spring 1967 collection.
At the end of this inventory suited to Kim Kardashian, Tom Ford appears. He advances. And he remains there, in the central area, asking people to stand up. Perhaps [people would do so] out of distress, or sympathy, or because all of this is supposed to be festive after all. But everybody just looks at their feet. The music does not stop. Ford tries to speak above the noise, louder. We can’t hear a thing. We just see this baby-faced man trying desperately to clear the air. He throw[s] himself upon his companion, Richard Buckley, and hugs him (Ralph Lauren often hugs his companion Ricky at the end of his shows, but then he returns backstage). But here everyone stays put. So Tom Ford retreats toward Anna Wintour and now it’s she whom he decides to embrace. Troubling.
– Virginie Mouzat of Le Figaro
If you don’t already know, Julia Restoin Roitfeld is model and daughter of famed French Vogue editor Carine Roitfeld. For V Magazine‘s upcoming issue #69, she is delivering a tiny collection of stunning self-portraits (the kind you don’t find on Myspace) while wearing Tom Ford‘s long awaited womenswear collection. Check out her short interview with the designer and the rest of the shoot below:
JULIA RESTOIN ROITFELD What made you decide that this was the season to return to fashion?
TOM FORD I told myself that I would not come back to women’s fashion until I felt I had something new to say. I feel that fashion has become too serious and that the actual customer’s needs have not really been addressed. Fashion needs to make one happy. It is a luxury and should enhance one’s quality of life.
JRR What inspired your collection?
TF Real clothes for real women. I want to concentrate on my real customer. That’s why I showed idealized versions of her – different women of different ages. It was about individuality, different body types, women who have their own style.
JRR What do you think fashion needs more of right now?
TF Spontaneity. Fashion needs to be more fun.
JRR What personality traits does the Tom Ford woman possess?
TF My customer has her own sense of style and knows herself well. My goal is to help women become the best version of themselves.
JRR What is your favorite piece from the collection?
TF I love every piece. That is like asking someone which one of their children is their favourite.
JRR Outside fashion, what are you looking forward to this spring?
TF I have to say more fashion. I love what I am doing right now and can’t wait to start the next collection.
JRR What was the last thing that made you laugh?
TF I laugh a good bit so that is a hard question. I suppose a phone call I just had with Richard [Buckley] five minutes ago made me laugh pretty hard. He has a wicked sense of humour.
JRR What’s your New Year’s resolution?
TF I don’t have one. I believe in living life the way that you want to live it every day, and if you do that you don’t really need to have New Year’s resolutions.