Okay, okay, I know I said I wouldn’t tweet from shows this season, but I had to make an exception for Erdem. What a collection.
For Autumn/Winter 2014, Erdem delivered unlikely mashups – seventeenth-century Velázquez infantas and the gorgeous Anna Karina, por ejemplo – to create a modern pack of epitomised girl power. After a slightly less-embellished wobbly last season, the King of Guipure returned to full-force flair. Like seeing a flower in full bloom, his botanical embroidery brought me back to everything I first fell in love with about his clothes: the magic, the detailing, and the feeling that wearing a piece from a collection such as this could somehow change your life.
As I tweeted: you take the cake, Mr. Moralıoğlu.
2. David Koma
In the alternate universe where I am a SuperSpy, all I wear is David Koma Autumn/Winter 2014. The precision and lines in this collection are absolutely second to none.
As a woman who has romantic feelings for everything printed and colourful (see: Matthew Williamson, Meadham Kirchhoff), I feel David Koma has done incredible work with what would look like the dullest colour palette in the world if presented by a less skilled designer.
Like last season, he utilised harnesses to compliment some couture-worthy cage work and topped it all off with delicate leather mesh. The craftsmanship – as you can see from the photos – was faultless. All controlled, all cohesive, and all a bit perfect.
With his debut for Mugler just around the corner, the fash pack is watching this one with baited breath.
3. Simone Rocha
For all you Elizabethan-loving fashionistas out there, we have Simone Rocha Autumn Winter 2014.
I couldn’t possibly pin a favourite garment down. From wool lace lattices to semi-transparent structured dresses, there was an effortless punk regality present in this collection – one which not even Queen Vivienne herself has managed to bring to fruition. Every aspect of every look looked to be an intricate testament to the strength of the feminine. Her trademark pearls were nowhere to be seen: a shame, until you saw they were replaced with an abundance of exquisitely gilded edges and – the piece de resistance – brogues with transparent heels.
Goodness gracious, I
want need it all.
4. Matthew Williamson
Halfway between cartoon and couture, Matthew Williamson got his fancy schmancyness* out for Autumn/Winter ’14. With Danielle Scutt newly appointed as the artistic head of the brand, his knack for bohemia took a warped and wonderful turn into starbursts and crystals and jumpsuits (oh my!).
As a product of the Seventies himself, Williamson’s collection was a roaring homage to the decade. It was Studio 54 at its peak…the intellectual party girls on their biggest night out, dressed to be noticed. I want it all. Including the shop floor-friendly trickled items that have yet to be revealed.
* It’s a word.